SipsBitesandSites

“When the moon hits your eye like a big pizza pie….that’s amore”.  I couldn’t help but hear Dean Martin singing the catchy lyrics of this fun, Italian love song in my head, while watching pizza after pizza, each one perfectly round and decorated, slide into the open mouth of the wood-fired oven labeled Stella.  I tried two of Pizzeria Stella’s pies on a take-out order one evening, but was less than impressed.  I had a feeling that it wasn’t the recipe that was the cause of food failure; it was the box, and the time it took to get my order home.  By then, our pizzas were soggy, and lukewarm at best.  If I had had an oven, I would have heated it up, and tried to resuscitate the two rounds; Pepperoni and Vongole (clams, broccoli rabe, pancetta and mozz).  But I was out of luck, having just moved into a new, unfinished place, the kitchen wasn’t done yet- no stove, oven, or countertops for that matter.

So I vowed to try the heavily praised pies again, but ONLY in the restaurant.  Stella really is the perfect corner place for a filling, quick bite.  Casual enough you can wear your Phillies baseball cap, but cozy enough that it doesn’t feel like a diner.  The atmosphere may not transport you to Italy, like some of San Francisco’s or New York’s Pie places, but the jovial and rather boisterous vibe that reverberated throughout the space gives you a feeling that your surrounded by family and friends.  It’s funny; you’d never know that this was a former Cosi coffee shop.

I suggest sitting at the pizza station bar, and watching the line of chef’s (headed by the talented Chris Painter) hand create each pie right before your eyes.  If you’re undecided on which pie to try, choose the one that looks most appealing to you as it gets pulled out of the fiery hearth, sliced, and drizzled with EVOO.

If you like a little spice in your life and in your food, like I do, then the Piccante Pie ($14) will bring your

taste buds much pleasure with the added plus of peppery heat.  Spicy hot capicola, the smokiness of sharp provolone cheese, an extra kick from crushed red pepper flakes, and lush red tomatoes make for an addictive offering.  The Neapolitan-style, light and airy but slightly chewy crust, is stamped with splotches of charry blisters on the bottom, and puffs of lightly blackened air bubbles on top.

This is the way to eat a Stella pie. Never again will I order take-out. I’ll also never order the Vongole ($17) again.  The fishy, extremely hard to chew, chopped clams and bitter garlic flavor were unpleasant as toppings.  I also noticed that during the hour and a half we spent lingering over our meal, only one Vongole was ordered and slid out from the blazing oven. Looks like it’s not a favorite.  I would, however, order the Pepperoni ($14) again.  I love how Stella uses tiny rounds of the spicy Abbruzze salami and as they cook in the 800+ degree oven the pepperoni pieces start to crisp up on the ends and then curl-up, becoming tiny little cups that contain a small puddle of deliciously flavored grease.

Stella usually offers a nightly specialty pie; so make sure to ask your server what the pie of the night is.  Start with the Passatelli in Brodo ($7), an earthen clay bowl filled with homey Italian chicken noodle soup.

It is a comforting way to shake off the cold weather and warm up your insides.  Wine is a must with Italian food, and the house red is a bargain at $5.50 a cup (can’t really call those clumsy things glasses).  It’s a decent Montepulciano d’Abruzzo that’s super food friendly, and it’s nice that the list actually tells you what the house red is, unlike the new local trattoria- ahem, Amis.  I do like the unpretentiousness of the casual glassware; I just don’t like the heaviness and thickness of them.  I’d never thought I’d say this, but I actually prefer Audrey Claire’s wine “glasses”, we’ll at least to these anyway.  Another winner on the wine list comes from one of my favorite producer’s of Chianti; Monsanto:  Stella is serving their  “Monrosso” Chianti by the glass ($9.50).  It’s earthier than the Montepulciano but carries a tart cherry brightness.  Finish like the Italians do, and order an espresso, although I can guarantee it will be hard to pass up the little silver bowl of  Jones-made gelato.

Stella brings another much needed dining option to the Headhouse Square/Society Hill neighborhood, and I love that they are open for lunch and serve straight through dinner.  Sad to say, but Philly was in real need of a place specializing in excellent gourmet pizza.  I’ll be honest though, I never thought Steven Starr would be the one to deliver it.  Stella is some serious pie, and although I still have a weaker spot for Osteria’s slightly crispier pies, I think I’ll be more likely to feed my pizza fix at Stella. The location, the casualness, the family friendliness, and the variety of pizzas here are like the perfect combination of toppings to satisfy my appetite.

Pizzeria Stella is located on 2nd & Lombard.  Hours are: Mon-Thurs 11am-10:00pm, Fri 11:30am-11pm, Sat 11am-11pm and Sun 11am-10pm.  Discounted parking is available behind the restaurant on Lombard St in the Park America Lot.  This Restaurant gets a thumbs up for being super kid friendly, so bring the whole family like us Italians do!

Filed under: Bites, Restaurant Reviews Tagged: | Best Pizza Philly, Philadelphia Restaurants, Pizzeria Stella, Stella Philly, Steven Starr restaurants